“The Epic 1954 Thayer Expedition on Denali’s South Buttress”

Roger Robinson, a mountaineer, rescue ranger, and conservationist, embarked on his inaugural climb of Denali in 1975 at the age of 21. Alongside seven others from Oregon State University, they tackled the rarely attempted South Buttress route, drawing inspiration from the 1954 Thayer expedition. During his presentation, Roger details the initial ascent of the South Buttress route, reflects on the 1954 Thayer expedition, and draws comparisons between their climb and his own in 1975.

The group of four hiked from Curry along the Alaska railroad to Ruth Glacier and proceeded to the South Buttress, eventually reaching the summit via the upper Karstens Ridge. Tragically, the leader Elton Thayer lost his life in a fall during the descent on Karstens Ridge, while George Argus sustained injuries and required rescue. This led to a harrowing ordeal for Argus and the remaining two members, Morton “Woody” Wood and Les Viereck, who walked to Wonder Lake to seek assistance.